The hunt for new boulders.

 This weekend I headed out to the NS to climb at Sawmill for the first weekend of the new season. This season overall, had sucked. Lots of snow, cold temps, and rain. Myself and Brandon headed up late on Friday and did some hiking to see if we can find a few new boulders and find boulders we did. I am looking into who owns the land but the boulders are big., and have a number of lines on them. This is not nearly as concentrated as Sawmill but if you are willing to walk this could be big. The last boulders we came to could have been the best, a large roof with holds!!! I think the lines will be in the 9-13 range and very good quality. The roof is 15 deep and about 20ft wide and ends in a very tall 30ft slab. We also scoped another area that has only a few problems on one boulder but the gem of the boulder is a brilliant high-ball in the V7-8-9 range will some very committing moves up top. I was able to do all the moves on TR but the line needs a bit more cleaning. I will be heading up on Friday night to clean it up and hopefully send! PICS to follow but for now enjoy!

Side view of the roof

another view of the roof. 

Guidebook.

The guidebook is almost done. I have started a blog that you can follow here:

http://midwestboulderingguide.blogspot.com

I will be using it like the Bishop bouldering blog so people can stay up to date on downrates, tirades, and breaks..

I am headed to Sawmill today for the first time of the season, no idea how it will be. 

Climbing Narc for Gym Climbers.

Last week I hit up the Outdoor Retailer trade show in Salt Lake. This was my first show with Sigg and it was fun to see old friends. I was able to climb a few times during the week at the Front Climbing Club. The Front is an amazing facility with good angles nice mix of holds but some of the most inconstant problems I have ever climbed on, not only in quality but in grading. I was surprised to learn that no one fills a "head setter" position but it is set up where people set in exchange for membership..

But more on that later... 

During a session at the Front I ran into a few local strong kids Joe Meiners and Griffin Whiteside and Scott Strong. The SLC crew is artartedly (yes that is a word) strong and motivated on rock climbing not just chilling in the gym. 

You can find out more about them here:

http://climbingcollective.com/2013/01/29/southwest-videos/

My plan for the week was to do work at the show and then head out to try Mask on Sunday. On Sunday Joe, Griff, and my self (Scott bailed) headed to Joe's from Salt Lake. The weather looked grim but we stayed positive. As we rolled into the left fork I quickly realized mask was not going to go.. Most of the boulders ended up being slightly damp and our attention quickly went to Paul Robinson's boulder problem A Wrinkle In Time. 

After a bit of snow removal we started to try. You start on a nice flat rail then head up to a matchable sandstone fold, from here make a huge move to a smile incut then match and follow a seam out right to a spicy (xtra spicy when covered in snow). Really the first few moves are the crux. 

Griff and Joe climbed it in a few tries and both powered thru the icy top out.. I punted. I climbed up high on the boulder but ran out of gas. Either way it was a nice day at the boulders with new friends. 

I was impressed by Joe and Griff not because they are strong but because they are motivated. Like really motivated. I did not have to do much persuading to get them to head outside with a terrible forecast. I am not sure when they learned this motivation but it is hard to find.. I call it the Jamie Emerson approach, always syked. 

Now I am back at home for the week and syked on training. Yesterday Daniel Woods made an accent of one of the hardest boulders in Colorado. The problem is located on the logo wall at CATS and follows a line of bubble wrap edges p the wall. 

Here is Carlo and Daniel projecting: 

Daniel Woods and Carlo Traversi Projecting Bubble Wrap from James O'Connor on Vimeo.

And Daniel sending. 

Bubble Wrap from James O'Connor on Vimeo.

I like this video alot, I also like the gym, lots of holds, infinite possibilities. I think someone at the co-op should do this to the steep wall. I have not met him yet but Zack Morris, are you up for it? 

Not so syked?

I have been more syked on drinking beer (Surly Abrasive) and watching hockey (thank god the NHL is back and my Gophers are on top of the rankings).

I have been traveling alot for work. I head to Philly and DC every 8 weeks and Chicago every 4. Throw in the occasional trade show and dealer visit I am out alot. I have found myself spending some time in a few rock gyms in the different cities but overall it is hard to stay fit.


Last saturday Tyler, Dr. Sean, and myself headed to the Bat roof to try a project in the arctic conditions. It was nice to get out but I did not have that drive to climb like I normally do. Maybe it was the cold but I was not so syked.

I will try and head back there sometime soon to finish it up. I am hoping that this is a good entry into the spring season, I can not wait to get back up to SAWMILL!

 Me on the Crux of the lower start to Icy Hot. 

 Nice board at the Delaware Rock gym

 The jug you move to is SHARP. 

 The first crux is a large move to a jug (the start of icy hot) then a series of bumps and bicep man moves. 

 Sean trying to stay warm on a possible new line. 

P.S. I got news the other day that the guide book will be done sometime in April/May this year! Get ready! 

P.s.s. Jordan cut a sick mix. See it here:

https://soundcloud.com/semi-conduktor/lets-get-pumped-forearm-only

Not much to say.

I do not have much to say but I would like to give you all an update.


The guide is almost done, I am syked to finally be finished with the descriptions and the busy work of shooting photos. We'll have our work cut out for us if we want to get it printed by spring so I am sure you will see a best of post soon.

I have been thinking about this last year of my climbing and life and I have to say I am syked on how it turned out. It could always be better but I am very happy with where I am. I have a new job, punted on 8B and, climbed a ton of amazing boulders in 2012. Here is a short list of my favs:

1. Black Dahlia, Joe's
2. Stand And Deliver, Red Rocks Nevada
3. Germ Free, Eldo
4. Wills Of Fire, Joes
5. Off the Rails, Ark

I took a trip to Joe's in November and was unable to finish Mask of God but I am planning on heading back after the winter show if the snow allows. I was also unable to finish the Amateur before the snow came down but I am training harder than ever for the spring.

The typical split after 4 tries on the Am.

My best go touching and millisecond stopping on the small crimp. 

Mask of God.. 2013? 8B? 

My source of power for the moment. Home wall.

Nice new problem for 2012, Chairman Meow (V9) Sandstone. 

Another project left undone in 2012, Barley Legal. 

Paul came into town and killed it, it was nice to see an old friend climb on our choss. 

Another new addition in 2012, Tyler Thurmes on Task Force (V7?) before the foot broke.

I have big plans for 2013, I am syked on all fronts. I look forward to mastering my career with Sigg and the places it will take me. I also look forward to what my life with Molly has to offer, I am excited to see what our lives will bring. As for climbing I have learned alot, I am not ready to give up on this selfish pursuit just yet, I would like to train hard this year and hopefully be able to make a trip to Switzerland in 2013, along with a small trip to Colorado this summer. I have really started to focus my energy for this spring and here are the main objectives:


1. Amateur (V12)
2. The Cabin Boulder Project
3. King Of Town (v12/13) Silivan Lake, SD.


I will be taking full advantage of this year and my free time while I still have it. I would like to give a huge shout out to Tyler Thurmes for keeping the syke, My wife for dealing with me, and most of all John Freaney. John hooked me up with the job and got me away from Nicros/VE and for that I am forever grateful.

Now if you all could start finding projects and keep the syke that would be awesome.

Organic Jeans

I was going to start out with how awesome Josh's jeans are but yesterday Sickygnargnar,blogspot.com left the blog world.. Good for him. We became friends because of his blog and like eastsidebouldering.blogspot.com I am sure our friendship will go on. 

Now on to the review. 

Anyone who has hung out with me knows I am obsessed with Moon jeans. I got my first pair from Wills when I was working for Five Ten and never really looked back. They had everything from fit, style, durability, strong brand, and preformed well. I now own 5 pairs of the same jean and wore them on a daily bases until now... 

Last week I received a long awaited package from Josh@organicclimbing.com, he told me about a year ago that he was working on some jeans and last week they showed up! Today will be my 5th day wearing them and I must say I am very impressed.  When I first got the jeans I was afraid the 30 would be a little big but after 1 wash and dry they shrunk up just nice (*I am about a 28 waste so if you order them and do not want to hang dry order 1 size bigger than you will need). I climbed in them the next day and was impressed that the gusset allows them to stretch and move much more than you would think yet the cut does not make your ass look all frumpy. The denim is a higher quality than the Moon jeans and I think it will hold up better long term. The Organic jeans are also made from local cotton and sewn in the USA (support local not China). 

Overall I would grade the new Organic Jeans an A+. My wife likes my butt in them and in the end that is all that matters. Organic jeans are available now in Blue and Black. Email Josh@organicclimbing.com for details and size availability. 

Amateur.

Lately life has been the same.


Catch a flight Monday morning, tour around some grocery store, sell some bottles, workout, climb, sleep, repeat until Friday, and then catch a flight home.

THEN THE BEST DAY! SATURDAY!

Wake up early, drive 3.5h, hike into boulders, try Amateur, split tip, drive home.

The problem is really simple but extremely finicky here is a break down:

Step 1- Grab start get established on wall.
Step 2- Grab razor
Step 3- HOLD razor and lock off for days
Step 4 - grab other razor
Step 5- Cut feet
Step 6- heal hook
step 7-grab intermediate then bump right hand to jug.


Until this year I could really only do step one and 2 and could not dead hang the 2 upper crimps from stacked pads. I still have not done step 4 but every weekend I get closer.. I really need to do it before the snow flies.




I have been trying it on and off for about 4 years now. The only other problem I have tried more would be Left of Lloyds and even that I am sure I am getting close to the same number of days I put in on that problem but this one is a lot harder to project, the drive alone can kill most peoples syke and the fact you get 3 or 4 tries before you are bleeding make it hard to refine beta. I am certain that Amateur is the hardest in the Midwest and I think it could be 8B... But I do have to say it is not really my style.

The most supportive women in the world.. my wife. 

 So close on this move..

 One of my best purchases as of late, an extendable ladder that fits in my pad.. It was because of this tht I was able to do the last moves and work out the beta for the heal hook. 

 MY LADY!