I HATE Bishop.

As some of you know, I hate Bishop.

Why? you ask.

1) Sharp as Fuck.
2)Hippies everywhere.
3) After you climb
-Haroun and the Sea of Stories
- Xavier's Roof
- Spectre
you have nothing to look forward to but split tips and pain..

I have decided to head to Bishop this weekend for New Years. I am sure it will be a hippie filled, bloody mess. I am going to try and stay off my finger. My friend Alex Savage (http://www.savageclimbing.com) is also injured and I heard he may just shoot video, I know I will. I really want to try this boulder problem (I have been flailing on it for awhile).


But we will see.

If you don't know, now you know.

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The Compex Fitness Trainer is absolutely, positively the same E-Stim device as the Compex Sport with only one distinction: Instead of coming with 6 programming modes, it comes with 3. You get Recovery, Resistance, and Endurance. Otherwise the technology and supporting components and documentation are identical.

This is a sports fad that is becoming more popular, go get one. You will not regret it.

Homeless, Injured, and pissed!

My finger (s) hurt. I am currently sitting in Stell coffee shop in Redlands California. I slept in the parking lot last night in the Five Ten van. I am moving back to Minnesota in February and need to not pay rent in California until then. Typically, this situation would not be that bad. I would head to the climbing gym and forget about my whoas. It is because of this situation that I realize that climbing has become one of my coping mechanisms. If anything in life hits me and I need to regroup the gym, boulders, and my lady are my go too.

Take one of these out of the equation and I "come off" (as in whipper). Trapped in Redlands for another week Molly-less, Climbing-less, and Basically Dollar-less (Damn Christmas) I am becoming extremely stressed and do not know what the fuck to do about it. Powerless.

I am thinking that the reason for writing this is no longer for you to read and be entertained but for me to vent. So add this to the list of things I use to cope.

P.s.

I know I am dramatic. I know you may not understand why. I know it will all be over soon!

Driving Sucks.

I am Driving from Chattanooga Tn to Redlands Ca and it sucks. The worst part about this situation is when I get back work is going to be hell followed by Driving back across the country to Mn for the holidays. FML.

It will all be over soon.

-nic

p.s.

My finger is not happy and because of my ring finger injury now my middle finger hurts. Both fingers are swollen and are "out the game".

Because of my full time road tour I have been unable to maintain ant fitness. I am physically the weakest I have ever been and I hate it. Last week I tried to do a few single arm lock offs and was disgusted by my lack of power.

I have decided to take 30 days off of climbing.

Pull ups, Push ups, Sit ups, and leg lifts are on the way.

Cumberland

WOW.

This place is good. Brion showed me around (because the 3crown was postponed till tomorrow).

People make fun of me for climbing with my feet. Well, today it all payed off. Here is a video of the old beta..

I can't even come close to this beta.

Gross's Roof 8a from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

So I got silly, here is a video of the day.

Best Boulders Under V5?

What is the best boulder under v5 in the Midwest?

Big Boy?

The Sycamore?

10th plague?

LRC, Veasy.

My flight from MSP to CHA (Chattanooga, TN) left at 5:20am on Thursday morning. I arrived at the airport at 4:50am and was not allowed to make my flight (the Delta lady was a bitch). I woke up at 4:00am for nothing, I was pissed. The good news was that I was able to catch a flight only an hour later (Delta lady was no help and still a bitch).

I arrived in Chatty at 12:00pm after a brief layover in Hotlanta and hating the Delta lady. Jon Doruough (SE Five Ten rep) picked me up and we headed straight up to LRC. I felt like crap but was marginally motivated to try The Shield. We arrived at LRC and quickly realized it was not going to be a hard climbing day, half of the boulders were wet and the air was dank. My attention quickly moved to a bunch of easier problems I had looked at but never tried.

VEASY from Nicros Club-JA on Vimeo.

The last stop of the Triple Crown is tomorrow and the weather looks terrible. But I am praying that it clears up because I would like to try "Salo's Roof" on Sunday. I love climbing in the south and I think it is one of the nations best areas but I find myself thinking of nothing but the 30 in Minnesota.

I have made a few changes in life and will be moving back to MN in a month. I have never been happier.

More on this coming soon...

The Medium 12

The "medium 12" is a idea similar to the "Big 5" but medium. So here is the "Medium 12", it consist of boulders in Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Iowa (if they had rock).

The "Medium 12"

1.(V8) Sandstone Violence

2. (V6/7) Jenga

3. (V9) Alpine Club

4. (V8) Beautiful Soup

5. (V8) Cave Traverse

6. (V7) Mikes Left

7. (V7) Genetic Control (Full points for non-roped ascent)

8. (V7) Payback

9. (V7) Counselor Moon

10. (V7) Dead Leaves and the Dirty Ground

11. (V8) Pocket Hercules

12. ????

I am unsure of the 12th should be but the list needs to be 12 not 11. So add your comments, I will update the list next week. My "BEST OF" list of this "best of" list are Sandstone Violence, Jenga, Alpine Club, Cave Traverse, Dead Leaves and the Dirty Ground (my #1) and Counselor Moon.

So far I have finished all the problems on the list, Here are a few videos that contain some of these problems.

Mike's Left - Taylors Falls from Neil Berget on Vimeo.

Governor Dodge State Park from Neil Berget on Vimeo.

Human Jenga from ClimbingNarc.com on Vimeo.

The Raven, My Raven

Simple, I like blogs that are simple, short, and to the point. I find myself fascinated with the Bleausard idea, if you are unsure of what a Bleausard is, this guy is a Bleausard.

The Midwest has a few Legends, some put up the problems, some just repeat, and others do both. In 2004 I began my pursuit of the hardest, best, and coolest problems I could find. At that time the gym (Vertical Endeavors) was the center and the community was built around it. Brian Camp and Jim Merli ran the show. For some unknown reason Brian and Jim let me climb with them, they showed me the path to the hardest in the Midwest and for that I am thankful.

Simple, to keep it Simple, thank you.

I am also composing a list of the hardest so that the younger generation has an end goal. I see so many young climbers training for the next ABS/ SCS comp. What if they wanted to train for Keymaker? Or Amateur?

Here is the list. Finish the list and you will be the Second on the "Best of the Midwest" List, Jim Merli being the first. He has not done all the problems on this list but has done 4 of the Big 5 (Ameture FA, Left of Lloyds, This Sporting Life FA, Exodus)

The Big 5

(V10) Keymaker

(V11) Left of Lloyds

(V12)This Sporting Life

(V12) Amateur

(V10/11) Exodus

I wanted to leave you with this, it reminded me of my project. If this isn't dramatic I am not sure what is.

http://www.heise.de/ix/raven/Literature/Lore/TheRaven.html