The Big 6 (in order of stars and my opinion)
(V12/B3) The Raven
(V12+/B3) Amateur
(V10) Keymaker
(V10/11) Exodus
(V11) Left of Lloyds
(V12)This Sporting Life
1 left and it is the hardest, Jim Merli's "Amateur" (v12/13 in my opinion). Jim and I are headed up to Sawmill next week, should be interesting. Amateur is a horrendously sharp boulder problem revolving around a one armer off a small seem crimp to another small seem crimp that is followed by a long lock off. Jim Merli makes it look v2, I have spent 5 or 6 days trying it already but could not complete the second or third (or dead hang the position after being power spotted). It is incredibly hard, not my style, and a fantastic test for me as a climber.
Ready..set..split tips AND BITCHING!
I plan on shooting some video of the area. I believe it is the best bouldering are in the Midwest (even if it is a bit sharp). Jim and I will be snow shoeing in and shoveling on Saturday.
More info later. I am still beaming after yesterday. WOW.
5 comments:
By best of the midwest are you just taking MN and WI? Just curious because I think there could be some various So Ill problems that could be on that list... have you been there? You'd dig it if not.
What are the hardezt problems in Solill? I know of the New Zero at 8b, Air Jordan 8a+ What else?
Is anyone going to ever do the project on the Cabin boulder on EJ's property?
'year of the renegade' v12 @the roost
'ring of fire' v10 @ the roost
'seam project' project right next to year of the renegade. @ the roost
'pulling the wool' v11 @ jackson falls
'dream weaver' v10 @ the beach
'worm world low'? V hard? @ Holly Boulders
probably other stuff that i dont know about as well.
If you're going to do a list of something like a Big 4 or 5 or whatever, i feel like that would be of utility if it were for a single area like Taylors or Sawmill. Somewhere that has a good concentration of problems with different difficulty levels.
Taylors "Advanced" Circuit:
Shot Down in Flames, B2 Bomber, Mike's Left, Midget Sit
Taylors "Open" Circuit:
Oxygen Cocktail, Lloyds Sit, Left of Lloyds, Genetic Control (with a rope on please).
Sawmill "Open" Circuit: Exodus, Juggernaut... ? I don't think Amateur should be included as it's only seen one ascent thus far.
Just an idea, I'd love to hear some other opinions.
Post a Comment