Projects, Part 2 Big Swirly

Many of you may know of a mythical amazing boulder in Northern Minnesota, it is one of the best boulders I have EVER climbed on. The boulder has some of the best Granite/gneiss I have ever held. On one section of the boulder stands 2 perfect (perfect start, perfect rock, kinda tall, cool moves) projects on the best stone that the boulder holds.

The red line is around v11 maybe v12 and I got close to doing it until a key foothold broke.
the one in yellow is a super project, I have only done the sit moves into the crux and have not/could not come close to touching the crux moves, at least 8b if not 8b+ but amazing and will be the best problem in the Midwest when it is completed.

Side view, steep and big.. the boulder is maybe 25ft tall? You can see Kris in the upper left hand corner cleaning it of in 2008.

Projects, Part 1

I am going to start posting the best projects I know about in the Midwest. Here is the first one..
I am going to call it the "Soggy ROOF project" it is at Sandstone and will probably not be a project for very long. It is a short v6 roof problem on good incuts and huge heal hooks to a hard move to a rad ear like hold.. from there you could top out on "invisible touch " or continue along the lip to "best v5 in Minnesota".

My estimate..V10.

p.s.

may have to wait for the river to freeze because the roof climbers over a bit of water.. Maybe a log bridge?

Small Arms Broke

The Gaston

Peanut

Sheriff

video

KNEEEEEE

Yesterday I headed out with the living legends, David Graham, Chad Greedy, and Caroline Treadway. THe day started off well but quickly moved down hill. I started trying small arms falling just before the last move because I dry fired off. I tried a few more attempts and ended up splitting 2 tips. I decided to try Phobos, it was going really well and I climbed thru the crux (a massive drop knee) and then heard and felt a POP, POP in my knee. I tried to climb thru it but it was too painful. I do not know a ton about knee injuries but I do know I cannot afford a long lasting injury.

I probably will leave Colorado having accomplished only a few small goals. I am not sure I will have skin by tomorrow for small arms but maybe I will wait until Sunday? Who knows? Maybe I can get syked again?

Later during the Day Dave tried this amazing "Ski Jump" project.

Here are some pics of the day...

"Ski Jump"

More "ski jump"

And more ski Jump.

Cruising

Chads House.

More Pic's

First off, the first move of Phobos is hard. It is not anywhere near v9..

Now that I have that out of the way..

The last few days I have been resting trying to finish off 2 (Small Arms 8a, Phobos 8a) of my projects that I was falling near or at the end on my last climbing day. I am headed out today with Dave and Chad to hopefully kill them off. Yesterday I tried to hike in to the boulders but the rain did not allow us to climb, so we hiked out...

Here are some photos of my trip.

Camp's new baller ride.. Rolling to the boulders in style

Evil Backwards 8B+, I wish I lived in Colorado

Camp on Evil Backwards 8B+

Chris Craft and Camper

Chris Craft!

I am shooting some video but it will have to wait until I get home, to much to do!

sickness

Brian being my sherpa because I was going to die..

12,500 ft with a 1,000 ft decent

Before the Headache all was well...

The crews...

Emerfag, Robo-Herm, Plow King, PINTO, and some dudes.

tommy caldwell has nothing on me...

Last night I completed one of my long term goals. Myself, Lynn, Liz, Scott, Jacob, AND Leila decided we are ready for fall and headed up to T-Falls to have a sesh on the Cave Traverse. I climbed the Cave Traverse in 2005 (before the start broke) and since I have repeated it nearly 150 times. The Cave boulder has almost 20 variations of v4 to v9 and most of them are amazing.. It is like an outdoor gym..

My goal has always been to climb all of the known variations in a single day.. last night I did it!



-Cave Left (v7 from proper start)
-Cave Left 2 Cave Center (v8 from proper start)
-Cave Left 2 Cave Right (v9 from proper start)
-Cave Center (v4)
-Midget (v7)
-Midget Stand (v5)
-Midget 2 Cave left (Cave Traverse short) (v6)
-Midget 2 Cave Center (v6)
-Liquid Swords (Ninja Swords) (v6/7)
-Cave Right (v7)
-Cave Right 2 Cave Left (v7)
-Cave Traverse (v8)
-Oxygen Cocktail (v8/9)
-Cave Trav 2 Cave Right (v8)
-Cave Trav 2 Cave Center (v8)
-the thing on the far right side of the boulder??? (v5)
-Liquid Swords into Cave Right (v8)

-And I did a few more variations that I cannot remember and I know I am leaving out..

On Saturday I am leaving for Colorado, am very mobed up. It will be good times, I would also like to thank Molly Hooley (my lady) for being the best thing that ever happened to me.. She puts up with a lot and I love her more than anything, she is amazing and you all should know that. VOMIT..

LATER.