Thursday, June 30, 2011

No more climbing

Yesterday was a biog day, I bought a house! WHoop. whoop. Now that I am in debt to my eyeballs I have no thoughts of climbing... well... I have a ton of thoughts but no time. I have to get the house in order so we can move stuff in after our wedding in 2 weeks. We are putting in new floors and some windows in the house and time is short. In just 17 days I will have a wife too.. that is also awesome.

I am hoping all of the house, wedding, coaching, and other crap slows down in August so I can get back on a normal schedule of climbing. I need to do the ameture this year and am not nearly in good enough shape.


That is all I got.

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

What is a boulder problem?


Does this ruin the Alpine Club boulder? '

Often when I tell people I am from the Midwest I hear similar responses of "You have climbing there?" or "Is it like Morison" (if you do not know about Morison read about it) I have, until lately been able to tell them "No, the Midwest has some of the best lines I have done". Let me start by saying I am excited about what is going on at the Lake but I worry about what it could become..

As you can see above I have lined out a photo of the current problems on the Alpine Club boulder. I now would like to ask you a few questions, please feel free to comment.

1) Would you classify all of these as new boulder problems? (*Alpine club in Yellow)

2) Should problems like this have names and grades?

3) Would you climb these problems?

4) Do a significant number of problems like this in a area make the area worse?

5) Should these problems be put into a guide or added onto Mountain Project?

I have no problem with adding crazy contrived problems onto 8a.nu but adding them to a platform such as MP allows people to search for hard things and find this...

Ready, set, GO.




Thursday, June 9, 2011

Route Setting



I spent the last 13days setting at the citizens comp in Vail, Colorado that took place during the world cup. It was part of my Level 3 internship for USA climbing/ setting you can learn more about it here, http://www.usacsetting.net/certification.

During the world cup I was able to learn from some of the best in the game, such as Chris Danielson, Mike Helt, Jermey, John Muse, and most of all the Bleu man himself Jacky Godoffe..

It was a fun event and I got a few good photos. I will post more soon.. but for now..


The legend, Jacky Godoffe



Kilian Fischhuber

The Setters.