Minnesota Bouldering

Top 100. #100.

2012-01-07T21:05:00.000-08:00

Like the pad post I have a new idea for a series of posts. Here it is. Urban Climber made a list of the top 100 boulder problems in America. You can find it

here:

http://www.urbanclimbermag.com/road_worthy/100_best_boulders_in_america/

I will write about the problems on the list I have climbed and give you my thoughts. Some are very very good, others are terrible.

Here is my First.

#100.

The Raven

Location: Sandstone, MN

Rating: V12

FA: ME!!!!!!AHAHAHAHAH!!!!1 I WINNN!!!!

Number it should be: #11

The story,

I had a major epic with this one. It took me 20 days. I injured my finger, punted on the end like 3 times, had a bunch of wablers and finally sent. It is still the BEST PROBLEM I HAVE EVER CLIMBED.

Brian Camp near the end.

Brian soaking the Sun up.

Me! I WIN!

The Haps...

2012-01-07T20:32:00.000-08:00

^This is Beyond life, and on the top 100..

I have climbed 35 of the 100. I wanted to add a few pictures and let everyone know what I have been up to.. in a very ADD way.

Tonight I went to the Gopher Game with my dad and it was awesome.... except they lost.

I also climbed today, it was awesome.

I tried a amazing project... and did all but the crux move.. it is not as good as the Raven but WAY BETTER THAN DEVIL'S LAKE CHOSS!!!! I think it will be 8a? Maybe 7C+.. But lately I am getting tired of wondering what grade goes with what problem.. I guess I just like climbing hard. For me.

I went to Arkansas. With Molly. ^this is not Molly.

Even Molly climbed a little bit.

I have been playing a TON of Fifa. It is amazing, I am undefeated in on expert thanks to a 90th min GOAL from Messi..

Pi came to Arkansas, he slept alot.

Chris Craft came home and punted all over Pocket Hercules.

Brian also came home. We all went to Sandstone. IN DECEMBER.. IT was perfect! Brian had this to say over a text "I think the Raven is the best problem I have ever tried". This is also on the Top 100..

More Brian on The Raven.

I spent some time with my Family ^this is my nephew Miles.

THE RAVEN!! Do you live in the Midwest? Have you tried it? If not, why the hell not?

Odessa?

2011-12-24T19:21:00.000-08:00

View Larger Map

This is what I have to say to winter. I am winning this year.

The weather is in awesome condition for some late season bouldering and PI and I decided to head out to the mythical "Odessa" boulder for some late season bouldering. I was syked to check out what I believe to be a project in the split of the boulder. After I "cleaned" the problem Pi ended up doing it calling it "Broke Back" from all the terrible falls I took to my elbow when my fat ass broke some holds.

Pi on the first move.

Pi on top of the boulder.

Broke Back (V9) starts in the middle of this face matched on a flake and then climbs straight up thru bad edges to a committing move at the lip.

Want to know where this boulder is?

View Larger Map

I would say it is worth 1 or 2 trips but it is only one boulder and I think this is the hardest line.

RANDOM FOOTAGE

2011-12-17T07:20:00.001-08:00

Here is a little video.

Joe's

2011-12-10T17:56:00.001-08:00

Sitting in Brian's apartment watching TV. Here is a video of the trip.

Total Ticks of the Trip:

Neil-

Kill By Numbers

Better than Coffee

Sling Blade

Obtuse

Dem Bones

Obscelete

Nic-

Kill By Numbers

Better than Coffee

Sling Blade

Obtuse

Dem Bones

Obscelete

Angler

Big Joe

Nerve Extension

Worst Case Scenario

Beyond Life

Trent's Mom

The Wind Below

Man from the Past

Finger Hut

Gentle Men's Project

Prince of Thieves

Ghost King

Jitter Bug Perfume

Eden

Playmate of the Year

Save Yourself

Boy Sized

It was a blast! I have never had so much fun just climbing boulders. It was nice to not focus on 1 thing but try as may hard problems as possible. I will defiantly be back..

Here are the things I tried and did not do:

Mask of God

Black Dahlia

Battle Toads

More movies and info about the trip to come.

Woodchipper, Amateur, and BACK...

2011-10-23T15:11:00.000-07:00

Last weekend I headed to sawmill to take advantage of the perfect weather... and boy was it good! I was able to climb the Woodchipper, Smoking Man Sit, and a variation that would make Ian proud of the Woodchipper called Drift wood. All of the problems are amazing and it was super fun to be climbing outside with friends. Liz and Pi came up and Pi and I looked at a few projects that I became very syked on... AND NEIL CAME OUT OF RETIREMENT. It was all around a next to perfect Weekend..I attempted Amateur for the first time in a year and it felt much better, I did not do any more of the moves but I was able to start slowing down the motion to the 2nd crimp..I was very syked on my minimal progress and felt as if the move would go this weekend but I know this will be a long run to try and get this thing done...

The Amateur, The Hardest in the Midwest.

The Crew on the way out..

First Crux of the Woodchipper, v11 I think..

AND THEN THIS HAPPENED!!!! GAWD WHY!

BAM!

I am violently allergic to poison ivy, I was hospitalized as a child and fear it during the summer, sometime last weekend I came in contact with some version of the P.I. not sure where but I think it came from my crash pad. I first noticed it on Monday, and by friday during forerunning I felt terrible and my back was leaking tons of fluid.. after a few trips to the Doc I ended up at the ER and now sitting in a hospital with some unknown skin infection.. NOT SYKED.

They say I could go home soon but not sure when.. I will climb next weekend and I am looking forward to the fact that it will be easy to diet and I get to wear sick pairs of hospital socks.

CHECK YOU LATER.

Woodchipper.

2011-10-04T16:48:00.000-07:00

Fall. Fall is almost here. I can feel it.

This past weekend a group of friends, Molly, and I headed up to Sawmill... It was perfect conditions. I love the fall, the forest was on fire with color and I was in the mood to check out projects. Pi and I wanted to check out the Budda Belly project. Pi did a stand start earlier this year after a hold broke and I wanted to check it out and the sit to it.

I was able to to do all the moves and complete the stand start (wood perker v8) and I do have to say, wow... that is an amazing boulder. GOOD work cleaning this one up pi.. Pi was able to do the sit calling it Woodchipper. My guess is that it is about v11. What up now WI? You guys want to put up another v10 in the Jenga boulder???

Trade Show/ Raging

2011-08-10T06:08:00.000-07:00

I just returned from the trade show, it was a rager.. I took some pics. Not of stuff because nothing was new and cool..

People making deals at HUKA

New Rocky guide.. on the real, the best guide in print today.

The crunk night, so much fun..

What my view looked like at the end of the night.

So, this year I went to the trade show in a "training" period which meant I was going to attempt to eat healthy and not drink...

I epically FAILED. I ate Mc'ds and drank every night...

I am now trying to detox with strong coffee and water. It seems to be going well. The summer is going off right now, great route climing temps and new work hours make Willow River the go to spot, I am trying a slue of link ups and trying to get enduro. I have heard of a new 13c project up on the mez but it has a red tag on it..

Check you later.

CLIMBING NARC SCOOPED AGAIN! NEW 8B+

2011-07-29T12:46:00.000-07:00

New 8b+ called paranormal activity, the day after his new 8C! Paul had this to say about the problem "mmm the line is amazing,links 8b to technical 7c+"

And when asked Megan Fox or Natalie Portman He replied,
"Fox for sure but I prefer Blake Lively" (not a dude).

I am the 1st to report.

2011-07-27T10:12:00.000-07:00

Paul Robinson made the FA of a yet unnamed boulder problem that he graded 8C in a area near Cape Town, SA. He had this to say from the top of the boulder "this costs me .50 but I sent!! In the dark 10 mins ago! Chyeaa Manynnnneeee! So Phyched 8C! 10 move cave boulder to 8B+ finish" Yesterday he reported that it felt similar to Big Paw only with a harder finish.

I belive this was Paul's last day in Africa but he plans to return to SA for 3 months next year.

YOU HEARD IT HERE FIRST!!!!

TAKE THAT NARC!!!!

I WIN!!!!

ALL CAPS!!!!!

Cammo Pad

2011-07-07T06:21:00.000-07:00

The Cammo pad.

Chris Hirsch and I began to climb together a lot more after Brian left and Jim stopped climbing. We had a good "competitive" friendship that made us both a lot stronger. We decided to take a trip to Colorado for some bouldering it would be my 2nd trip out there and I was syked. On the way I told Josh I needed a new pad and he cooked up this bad boy.

The ALPINE Pad.

a thinner pad design, about 2" thinner than its counterpart and the first pad I got with a hip belt..

This is the pad I have used the most, probably because I am lazy..

This pad is also been under more hard boulders than I can think of.. It was under this pad that I climbed v11 and v12 (depending on who you talk to.).

This thing is still in working order except the hip strap buckles broke and the velcro does not work so well.

I still use it too this day and is awesome because of its size and weight.

A history of tool

2011-07-06T06:04:00.000-07:00

No idea when this was but I do know a few things,
1) I wore montrails
2) I was so into being sponsored
3) none of my friends really liked me during this time
4)looking back I dont really like this guy

It was during this time that I was still rocking the Pink and Black crash pads Here is a picture of the single::

My "friend" Brian Camp, Pi and Eric all headed to So ill shortly after this pic was taken. It was one of the best climbing trips I have been and I still remember all the times we had, the highlight was certainly the last night before out last climbing day when we hit up a "club" directly across the street from Dave and Dan Chancellors house (Soill.) and I decided to get as drunk as humanly possible without dieing. I spent the entire night puking and woke up with a shag toilet rug attached to my face...

I had been working on Body Karate and kept falling near the end it would, at the time, be the 1st v9 I climbed out of the state.

The morning after I woke up terribly hung over and everyone tried to convince me to just head back to MN, I wanted to at least try so we headed down to the boulder. I somehow climbed it death creaming my way to the top.

That would have left the trip on a high note but on the way back My "friends" Brian and Pi needed to "help" me along in life by telling me how big of a tool I was being. It was hard.. It lasted for 9hours.. I needed it... I almost cried every time I got out to fill up in Gas..

Thru the next bit alot changed Brian and Kelly moved to Colorado, the gym changed, and I was was starting to come out of my slump of tool... but only a little.

I started climbing with Chris Hirsch a ton and we both started making big gains in our climbing. For awhile Chris dominated the comps and I would set. One year he decided to not compete in the "Passion for Flashing" a local route climbing comp. At first I thought nothing of it until I heard what the prize was..

A new Organic CRASH PAD!

I trained with Chris for 2 weeks and ended up winning.. this little guy..

I was syked

New house and new VE.

2011-07-05T08:04:00.000-07:00

New Floors, Doors, Wondows, carpet, and paint are my 8B for now.

Steel used for the 60ft climbing walls at the new VE Minneapolis.

I spent my 4th working on my new house. I always wondered how people take breaks from climbing and I think this is it.. Just get married, buy a house, and BAm! NO MORE CLIMBING. The good news is I am syked both on climbing and the house... oh, and getting married. I am also syked on the NEW VE Minneapolis. It is going to be tall. I think the bouldering will still be better at St.paul but the routes are 60ft tall.

New pad post coming soon.

No more climbing

2011-06-30T07:31:00.000-07:00

Yesterday was a biog day, I bought a house! WHoop. whoop. Now that I am in debt to my eyeballs I have no thoughts of climbing... well... I have a ton of thoughts but no time. I have to get the house in order so we can move stuff in after our wedding in 2 weeks. We are putting in new floors and some windows in the house and time is short. In just 17 days I will have a wife too.. that is also awesome.

I am hoping all of the house, wedding, coaching, and other crap slows down in August so I can get back on a normal schedule of climbing. I need to do the ameture this year and am not nearly in good enough shape.

That is all I got.

What is a boulder problem?

2011-06-21T12:35:00.000-07:00

Does this ruin the Alpine Club boulder? '

Often when I tell people I am from the Midwest I hear similar responses of "You have climbing there?" or "Is it like Morison" (if you do not know about Morison read about it) I have, until lately been able to tell them "No, the Midwest has some of the best lines I have done". Let me start by saying I am excited about what is going on at the Lake but I worry about what it could become..

As you can see above I have lined out a photo of the current problems on the Alpine Club boulder. I now would like to ask you a few questions, please feel free to comment.

1) Would you classify all of these as new boulder problems? (*Alpine club in Yellow)

2) Should problems like this have names and grades?

3) Would you climb these problems?

4) Do a significant number of problems like this in a area make the area worse?

5) Should these problems be put into a guide or added onto Mountain Project?

I have no problem with adding crazy contrived problems onto 8a.nu but adding them to a platform such as MP allows people to search for hard things and find this...

Ready, set, GO.

Route Setting

2011-06-09T10:15:00.000-07:00

I spent the last 13days setting at the citizens comp in Vail, Colorado that took place during the world cup. It was part of my Level 3 internship for USA climbing/ setting you can learn more about it here, http://www.usacsetting.net/certification.

During the world cup I was able to learn from some of the best in the game, such as Chris Danielson, Mike Helt, Jermey, John Muse, and most of all the Bleu man himself Jacky Godoffe..

It was a fun event and I got a few good photos. I will post more soon.. but for now..

The legend, Jacky Godoffe

Kilian Fischhuber

The Setters.

Cabin Boulder. BOOTAG!

2011-05-23T08:29:00.000-07:00

Scott, up high on the Sycamore (v2+)

Last Friday Scott and I headed up to the Cabin boulder, we decided on a 1 day push to the boulder and back. I am not going to give a ton of details but it was only 1.75h more than driving to Sawmill and back in a day.

The reason or the trip was to refresh myself with the projects that lye on this big boulder and look at a few other areas.

This is the mega line, best rock in the Midwest and could be anywhere from v13,v15.

This is the same face as pictured above only farther out.

on the right you have the Mega Project, on the left the "understudy" project.

I call it Minneswiss.

Not a summer area, bugs are bad.. You can see Scott is not syked.

The view from a trail as you walk in... sleeping giants in the woods.

Northern Mn at its finest.

I cannot remember what we called this area, but it is also dope.

More Minneswiss.

On Thursday I am headed to Vail to complete my Level 3 internship for USA climbing. I am not in the greatest shape but I am hoping it goes well. More on that later.

Colorado.. Crunk.

2011-05-17T10:58:00.000-07:00

*EDIT:

I also hung out with my BEST BRO Brian Camp.. CHORVAT WAS DER TO.. we got crunk on margaritas and I puked all the next day. It was awesome!

Last week I attended the CWA in Boulder, Colorado. It was a great time. I tried to climb but had some serious skin problems, like my hands had melted... was not good. I did do a few problems in the v7-v9 range so that was cool. The highlight of the week was when Kelly, Jeff, Flann, Jamie, Steph, and I all decided to join Dave, jon, and a whole other crew in Denver at a club called BETA. It was a blast! We all danced and I showed everyone my jump out of my shoes trick! It was the day before the end of the show and I was out till 3am.. not a great idea but others got it much worse. Jamie Emerson and I both had to be at the show at 9am, Jamie had to be apart of a round table on climbing gyms and I had to stand a the Nicros booth. Here is what the night looked like.

Jamie was complaining about the lack of alcohol in the drinks...

I think this is where the Booze got him..

This is 9am the next morning, Jamie is prolly still a little crunk.

On a completely different subject,
This guy... is homeless? WTF?

I have a big heart. I like to help people when I can. I hate people like this guy. He was sitting on the corner with a book, in a nice chair enjoying the day... BUT HAD A DANG SIGN THAT SAID HOMELESS PLEASE HELP. I pointed out his flaws on the drawing so take a look.. he also never engaged the cars as they drove by.. just sat there reading. Boulder homeless are a different breed. Not at all like LA or MN. Maybe it is all the free Wholefoods samples???

Wisco

2011-04-18T07:47:00.000-07:00

I cannot wait till July.

This past weekend I headed to Wisco to hang with friends and compete in the Barn Burner comp. It was really fun! I got to pick on a 15 year old that almost whooped my ass in the comp.. I broke my toenail off because I kicked the wall so hard doing Steve's Dyno. I also got to watch Chris take down the Keymaker.. he crushed the thing. I got to do another variation of problems I have done. And I got to hang with Steve and Katie, oh! and Katie killed Jenga after saying she wasn't going to do it..

SYKED.

2011-04-12T12:53:00.000-07:00

I am syked again...

kinda.

I did hurt my finger last week trying the horribly chipped route Able. I have decided never to try it again, well at least for now I am done with it. I am syked on climbing at willow and getting into route shape. Very syked on routes.

But until that fully happens I am headed to DL this weekend to check this ish out!

Pad Post, part t 2

2011-03-15T08:13:00.000-07:00

OK.

Thinking back it must have been 2004 when I received my Mad-Choss crash pad. In 2005 I was really syked my douchedom had slowed but only temporally (*more on that later). One day at work (*Nicros) a guy named Josh Helke came in and showed me some Chalk-Pots and Crash pads he was doing. I thought it was cool and all the cool kids had it so I need to be cool. I asked josh to make me something special... Something that fit me..

PINK AND BLACK CRASH PAD!
MATCHING CHALK POT!
MATCHING CHALK BAG!

OMG!

I WAS SO FLY!

Not. But his stuff was.

I believe I own the 3rd Organic 1/2 pad ever made and the 6th Organic Crash Pad..
This pad is famous like wHOA, Daniel Woods fell on it once... maybe even twice.. I think Brian Had sex on it, then I slept on it not knowing that disgusting fact..

Here is some information you need to know,

Full Pad-
I have used this pad more than any other PAD I own. I climbed the Cave Traverse for the first time with only this pad and my half pad. Out of the 2 plastic buckles it has 1 has broken and it finally broke 2 years ago because I closed my tailgate on it. This one had awesome velcro so you could strap the half pad onto it (*Organic now uses a better metal buckle instead of Velcro). I climbed my first v7,v8, v9, v10, and v11 Over this guy.. The foam finally "flattened" out last year. I am now making plans to have it DE-stuffed and turned into a rug.

Half Pad-
The half pad has one hole, the hole is from a rodent that decided soy foam was tasty. I still use this half pad anytime I climb. The foam is not flat.. For real, feels like brand new... It has not taken as many falls but you would thin it would flatten out.. nope. still good.

This pad may not be as nice as the newer organics but the foam is bomb the design is sick and the colors as cute... I think that is why Organic is on top..

Sandstone,Mn

2011-03-14T18:02:00.001-07:00

MY FIRST PAD.

2011-03-14T09:24:00.000-07:00

Twas the Christmas of 2004 or 5? I had just begun climbing and was in full douche form. I had 6 ear piercings and a Mohawk that was blond. I was/am a douche.

After meeting my climbing mentors (Jim Merlie, Brian Camp) I quickly realized a few things, Earings are not cool, prana is for posers, hueco is the best bouldering in the world, and most importantly BOULDERING is the only way to climb.. oh, and climbing hard gets you chicks..

I quickly decided I needed a "crash pad" and asked my moms for a crash pad as a gift..

*IMPORTANT NOTE

-ORGANIC WAS NOT YET MAKING PADS..

xmas came and there it was...

a MAD-CHOSS crash pad

at first this pad was awesome, It even worked as a couch! I was very happy at the time but looking back it was a terrible decision..

here are a few facts (*use picture above to follow along).

1. One of my first trips to SAWMILL someone fell and landed on my pad... only they STOPPED A HOLE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE PAD... NOT ON THE FOLD BUT WHERE THE FOAM IS..

2. Mad-CHOSS had this idea that you and your friends could Velcro pads together to create a supper landing surface, what they forgot is that if you land on the pad it will tear leaving another hole in your pad.

3. After the holes started forming I thought it would be cool to glue carpet to the pad.. still a good idea to this day.

4. CHEAP PLASTIC BUCKLES. 3 of the 4 broke withing a month.

5. CHEAP METAL BUCKLES. 3 of 3 have bent or broke.. 1 of which broke when I used it as a couch.

6. More holes.

I now use this pad as a bottom feeder (large pit that needs to be filled with shitty pads so nice pad can provide good landing). This was one of the best Christmas presents I have ever received and I am very thankful, this pad will always holds a special place in my garage because it was my first.

NEVER BUY A MAD ROCK. THE PADS ARE TERRIBLE.

1 down 8 to go..

Best in the Midwest.

2011-02-28T10:58:00.000-08:00

This weekend was the best of the Midwest hosted by Prairie Walls Climbing gym and the MCA. I shot some pics with my phone... Take a look..

Trihn won womens open..

Glenn telling everyone about the MCA working with Banning to get it open to climbing!

Setters after a safety meeting.

D, holding it down..

co-op captain and honey badger..Kris J.

Noah, incredibly disappointed with yet another loss to me he has yet to place higher than me at a comp.....!!!!!

Slopers and big boulders

NOAH.

and the MENS OPEN winner... JORY... who knew?

The Haps

2011-02-23T11:53:00.000-08:00

With the weather sucking hard it is time to make some new grips....

I have been shaping on and off for as long as I have been climbing, at first I sucked but I think I am getting better... Comfort.. all about comfort. I did this new set and it is BOMB in Urethane..

Later this week I will be doing a History post.. It in not going to be lame and all about me, it is going to be about my crash pads..

From Madrock to Organic, a climbers life in review...

Check back later.

Amazing Day followed by day from hell...

2011-02-20T19:39:00.000-08:00

(*editors note, Today on the way to work I was forced to shovel my car out of a 2ft snow bank and was stuck for over an hour. I hate living here, this place sucks, and I need to move... You may find this funny, I do laugh a little bit.. but for real.. I moved back missing this place and I still know I will end up here some day but this place BLOWS hard. SO HARD.)

(2nd note: The Jury (Brian Camp, Josh Helke, and Andy Raether) are still deciding if we topped out to early. Once again the old school rains on my parade.. So now it should read:

Invisible Touch (short)

SANDSTONE!

Yesterday while most Minnesota climbers were at the P for F comp at VE I headed to Sandstone With Pi, Randy, and long lost Beckwith....

Randy.. a pussy in the cold...

Here is a sequence (bottom up) of the most amazing problem at Sandstone. Could be called "Invisible touch" but I have heard it is not, invisible touch tops out higher? This problem, what ever it is starts on a flat jug under the roof then climbs out and traverses on amazing edges to a full value mantel. Could be v8 but no one will no until more people do it... the snow will not help!

And the top out!

The best part of the problem is that it is only accessible while the ice is in, it was a little weird hearing all the pops and cracks ice as we were climbing, I know the ice is safe under the problem but I WOULD NOT GO OUT on the ice...

In other news, Adam Remo-remo is now famous...

It is now snowing 12-15" here in White Bear Lake, MN... fml... Molly is worth the pain but this is getting really old.. really old... just want to be outside!

TOP 3 FOR SPRING.

2011-02-07T10:29:00.000-08:00

1) King of Town v12, Silvan Lake SD.

2) Budda Project, T-Shake Shuffle Project both are v10+???, Sawmill

3) Amateur, V12 Sawmill.. my nemesis.

SICK OF WINTER..

2011-02-07T09:54:00.000-08:00

A PICTURE OF MY HOUSE WHEN I AWOKE ON SATURDAY..FML.

Been climbing on plastic a ton lately and it is getting old. This part of winter is always the hardest because I tend to go in and out of "VALLEYS" in my training and I am always 2nd guessing what I am doing...

1 day last week I headed out to Sandstone and hit up the river boulder to clean off and thaw out a old v10 Mr. Raither put up back in the day called Invisible Touch. I had looked at it a few times but the landing was swallowed up by the river making it unclimbable... I cleaned it off and maybe will be able to climb on it this weekend...

I am also syked on a few project at the lake... well, in reality only one will get me to drive there and here is is. I have never looked at this in person so it could be total shit... Steve has been wrong before (imposable project!). The weather is looking on the up and up so maybe this could be climbable this weekend? Who knowz...

I will do a 2nd post with my top 3 "to do" for the spring..

Goals, NEW AND OLD.

2011-01-27T11:47:00.001-08:00

Here is a list of goals I made last year..

1. The Shield

DONE.

2. Greatest Show

DONE? I am going back to try something else on that boulder..

3. 30 project

DONE.

4. Ameture (Have not tried yet this season)

Not done, so hard.. Will do the spring?

5. Climb an 8a boulder @ the lake (not sure if the rock will make anything that hard)

Never found a project.

6. Lead rubber man (if I cannot die attempting) (Have not tried)

Never been on a rope at the lake

7. Flash whiskey ago go(so?) (Have not tried)

Still not tried, will try this spring.

8. Go to switz (I leave June 18th)

DONE

9. Go to spain (hmmm?)

Was syked, now I am getting married.

10.Heal my finger (did it then re-injured it)

DONE.

11. Homestar

Never tried it.

12. King of Town

Never tried it.

13. The Prow

DONE

As for 2011?

BIG GOALS...

1. Ameture
2. Top Notch
3. Get Married
4. Flash Whiskey a GO GO
5. King of Town/ Homestar
6. Cabin Boulder Projects
7. Jim's hard problem at swedes
8. T-shake shuffle arete project.

ICE. WTF?

2011-01-10T06:35:00.001-08:00

It is hard to tell scale but the roof was about 4 to 5 ft off the ice last year (photo from Lynn)

Now it is about 2 ft off the ice.

Looks like the Project is still a project for another year.. SO lame.

UNCUT VIDEO!!!OMGOMGOMG!!1

2011-01-03T17:42:00.000-08:00

Here is one of my favorite uncut videos,

All 1 take... thank about how they got all that shit in the room without you knowing.. Crazy..

And Here is my Uncut video of the shield.. Trust this makes it look terrible but the problem is amazing.

And here is a good video of the shield..

And a video of my hangover day,

Puked 2 times and sent..

Odessa Project.

2010-12-21T08:50:00.000-08:00

There is a random boulder in Odessa MN.

It has a random Vert V8-v10ish project on it, I could only find this picture..

Nothing is going on here.. So cold.

2010-12-02T07:40:00.000-08:00

Nothing is new.. nothing.. I have done all the moves on the 2 v11's in the gym, I now need to put it together...

All I can think about is the Shield...

Soon..

SO SOON.

Camp Syked?

2010-11-23T08:06:00.001-08:00

Respect.

Triton FA from Climb High CO on Vimeo.

Employee of the year/ a season in Review

2010-11-12T06:07:00.000-08:00

Well another year has come and gone... twas a good one.

I am not sure if you all have been following the weather but the shit is coming. HARD. The season may start up again so this post may have to be edited but I thought I would do a brief year in review. I am sure I am going to forget someone or something so feel free to comment.

In January I moved back to Minnesota from California.. It was the best/worst thing I have ever done. As I was contemplating the move I had on thing on my Mind..

As I arrived to a mild less snowing Minnesota in February it was on. Jim Merli quickly became the "GO-TO" as it goes for climbing partners and we started heading out to the water areas of Minnesota only accessible in the winter. The first weekend of Feb Jim, Even, and I headed out to Frank's Roof to see if it was climbable. It was.. And I was syked. Valentines weekend I forced Jim to give Sandstone a shot (we still had over a foot of snow on the ground). To my amazement it was not only climbable but conditions were perfect (after a little shoveling).

It was 3 more weekends before I put the Raven to sleep..

On Sunday March 7th I killed it. It is still the best climbing moment I have had. But ya'll know that..

I think it was the next weekend Jim finished up Tengo and we headed to Sawmill. Shortly after our snowy wet trip to Sawmill Jim developed some tendinitis and dropped out for the rest of the season.

After The Raven was done I began drinking a lot of beer and kinda was done for the season...
I ran around doing a few Fa's and some Random problems I always wanted to do but nothing really hard just fun stuff.

The spring season for the most part was quiet (this is the part I am unsure of)...

Fill in the blank, did anyone climb anything?

I took a few trips but for the most part the spring/summer was SLOW.

Except

Molly and I got engaged!!! boosh..

OH wait..

I forgot something...

This guy came into town and fucked Sandstone up...

He got the 2nd of the Raven and flashed the hardest problem in the gym.

Then this guy came into town and fucked it up more... let's be honest, he wins Employee of the lifetime...

Cable 5.14a/b (third try)

Natural Selection 5.12c (Onsight)

The Nicros Screw on problem V12/13

Pocket Hercules V8 (FLASH)

The Raven V12

Tengo De La Muerte V10 (FLASH)

Lean Wid It, Rock Wid It V9 (FA)

Rock Wid It V4

Couch Time 5.12C/D/13.A (FLASH)

Mono Route 5.13A (FLASH)

Cave Trav V8

Oxygen Cocktail V8/9

Cave Right V6

Cave Left into Cave Right V8

Mike's Left V7

Mike's Left Sit V9

Lloyd's Sit V10

Left of Lloyds V11

RESPECT.

May was rad, conditions did not get to warm but the JUNE hit and I forgot why I moved back...

Fast FWD..

Nothing really happened this summer,

I think Noah did some hard stuff in a few tries and with terrible technique. Lets not forget he won the passion for flash'n but then Jim owned us all at the best of the midwest...

The Fall has been Great WE HAVE DONE ALOT IN MN, I can't say the same about WI but they try.. I think all the cheese breeds punters.

Now for the employee of the Season.

Daniel wins for overall but for the locals:

Anthony

Not sure why he is up for it but he did some kinda hard stuff at willow and climbed Pocket Hercules, supposedly. I guess he also did all the moves on Tengo and in the Midwest doing all the moves is a big deal...

Kelly and or Jeff

Kelly did got the first Vag ascent of Alpine Club, Jeff did the Cave Traverse.. Again, Midwest V8= big deal.

Beck

Beck is my vote for employee of the season, this dude has killed it. In only a few weekends he has climbed almost all of the hard v7's in MN and is about to kill the Cave. Dude is on a rampage. The most impressive things about him is he always falls on the last move.. and did not die in the pit when he punted on the last move (and then sent) Counselor Moon.

Noah

Little Noah did some hard stuff in the gym, climbed a few hard routes at Willow, won some comps, and along with his team devolved a nice little roof at Ely's Peak and put up a classic called Scott's Knee and rated it v7 (could be v6)..

Pi probably climbed a ton of hard stuff but we will never know.

And Peter

Pete did 2 projects near Duluth (and I am still waiting to hear where the one pictured above is)

This blog probably makes no sence because I feel I have jumped all over the place but I will leave you with this..

(I know I will be leaving something out)

A breif list of FA'S over V7

V7
Escaping the Habit of Living aka Call 4 BJ - Peter Dodge
Scott's Knee- Noah Ridge

v8
All For Panic- Nic Oklobzija
Sex and Chocolate with a Cherry on Top (aka S&C Direct)- Remo
Tunder Tighs- Nic Oklobzija

V9
Liber Abaci - Peter Dodge
Lean Wid it, Rock wid it - Daniel Woods
Lamest Show on Earth (not really a FA but what is it?)
Maggie- Nic Oklobzija

V10
Veyron Arete- Nic Oklobzija

v12
The Raven

What did I miss?

New Problems in B2

2010-11-10T10:30:00.000-08:00

we set a bunch of new problems in B2, I moved the volumes and I am syked on the new configuration. Next month the volumes are going to B1 so enjoy them for now.

Sick Video

2010-11-04T09:55:00.000-07:00

Fingerboard Basics with Ned Feehally of Beastmaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.

Take a look at the video, yeah the workout is cool but LOOK AT THE GYM...

It is a place in Sheffield

http://www.climbingworks.com/gallery/The_Works_Tour/

Frank's Roof

2010-11-04T06:26:00.000-07:00

With winter quickly approaching I have only one thing in my mind that will keep me from shooting myself/ taking up ice fishing and quitting climbing and it is this ROOF!! A few years ago Chris Hirsch and I decided to go look at a area called Franconia.. We found this sick roof and put up a problem called Icy Hot and graded it v9.. it is basically power moves on jugs to a techy v8. The roof has a ton of projects and I cannot wait to get back.

Cave Traverse Downrated?

2010-11-01T13:32:00.000-07:00

*the downrate was a joke...

So look at the photos bottom up and you will see the Beck's bastardized version of the Cave Traverse. I have used a knee bar before but did not think it helped, his uses a slightly different foot and I think that is the key.

And the final bump..

Move the foot out.

Grab the 2nd intermediate

Grab 1 of the intermediates

Set the knee

Move the feet

And he snags it.

Still a hard drop in

Jordan made a video of the "new classic" method..

Cave Traverse V8, Taylors Falls, MN from Jordan Seering on Vimeo.

Did 2 new problems!

2010-10-30T21:02:00.000-07:00

Best shoes ever..

Veyron Arete

DID IT..

CANNOT SLEEP... and I love it..

2010-10-29T13:25:00.001-07:00

I found a new one... Lynn took a photo awhile back and here she is... I am heading up with PI, Jacob, Beck, and a few others for a Sawmill Sesh tomorrow. I know this will go down, I also know that others may too....

SO SYKED!!!

FOUND A PROJECT...

2010-10-25T06:29:00.000-07:00

I finally found a project I can do all the moves on and is not sharp as broken glass... well the first part is true.. It was first cleaned by B-camp and is a "Prow" like arete, only harder and less moves. Here is a video of some classics at Sawmill, I put it together fast so the editing is Shmea...

Sawmill Classics from Nicros Club-JA on Vimeo.

Projects, Part 2 Big Swirly

2010-09-23T12:33:00.001-07:00

Many of you may know of a mythical amazing boulder in Northern Minnesota, it is one of the best boulders I have EVER climbed on. The boulder has some of the best Granite/gneiss I have ever held. On one section of the boulder stands 2 perfect (perfect start, perfect rock, kinda tall, cool moves) projects on the best stone that the boulder holds.

The red line is around v11 maybe v12 and I got close to doing it until a key foothold broke.
the one in yellow is a super project, I have only done the sit moves into the crux and have not/could not come close to touching the crux moves, at least 8b if not 8b+ but amazing and will be the best problem in the Midwest when it is completed.

Side view, steep and big.. the boulder is maybe 25ft tall? You can see Kris in the upper left hand corner cleaning it of in 2008.

Projects, Part 1

2010-09-23T12:05:00.001-07:00

I am going to start posting the best projects I know about in the Midwest. Here is the first one..
I am going to call it the "Soggy ROOF project" it is at Sandstone and will probably not be a project for very long. It is a short v6 roof problem on good incuts and huge heal hooks to a hard move to a rad ear like hold.. from there you could top out on "invisible touch " or continue along the lip to "best v5 in Minnesota".

My estimate..V10.

p.s.

may have to wait for the river to freeze because the roof climbers over a bit of water.. Maybe a log bridge?

Small Arms Broke

2010-09-23T12:00:00.000-07:00

The Gaston

Peanut

Sheriff

video

2010-09-12T07:54:00.001-07:00

KNEEEEEE

2010-09-10T11:33:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I headed out with the living legends, David Graham, Chad Greedy, and Caroline Treadway. THe day started off well but quickly moved down hill. I started trying small arms falling just before the last move because I dry fired off. I tried a few more attempts and ended up splitting 2 tips. I decided to try Phobos, it was going really well and I climbed thru the crux (a massive drop knee) and then heard and felt a POP, POP in my knee. I tried to climb thru it but it was too painful. I do not know a ton about knee injuries but I do know I cannot afford a long lasting injury.

I probably will leave Colorado having accomplished only a few small goals. I am not sure I will have skin by tomorrow for small arms but maybe I will wait until Sunday? Who knows? Maybe I can get syked again?

Later during the Day Dave tried this amazing "Ski Jump" project.

Here are some pics of the day...

"Ski Jump"

More "ski jump"

And more ski Jump.

Cruising

Chads House.

More Pic's

2010-09-09T10:08:00.000-07:00

First off, the first move of Phobos is hard. It is not anywhere near v9..

Now that I have that out of the way..

The last few days I have been resting trying to finish off 2 (Small Arms 8a, Phobos 8a) of my projects that I was falling near or at the end on my last climbing day. I am headed out today with Dave and Chad to hopefully kill them off. Yesterday I tried to hike in to the boulders but the rain did not allow us to climb, so we hiked out...

Here are some photos of my trip.

Camp's new baller ride.. Rolling to the boulders in style

Evil Backwards 8B+, I wish I lived in Colorado

Camp on Evil Backwards 8B+

Chris Craft and Camper

Chris Craft!

I am shooting some video but it will have to wait until I get home, to much to do!

sickness

2010-09-05T16:43:00.001-07:00

Brian being my sherpa because I was going to die..

12,500 ft with a 1,000 ft decent

Before the Headache all was well...

The crews...

Emerfag, Robo-Herm, Plow King, PINTO, and some dudes.

tommy caldwell has nothing on me...

2010-09-02T06:36:00.000-07:00

Last night I completed one of my long term goals. Myself, Lynn, Liz, Scott, Jacob, AND Leila decided we are ready for fall and headed up to T-Falls to have a sesh on the Cave Traverse. I climbed the Cave Traverse in 2005 (before the start broke) and since I have repeated it nearly 150 times. The Cave boulder has almost 20 variations of v4 to v9 and most of them are amazing.. It is like an outdoor gym..

My goal has always been to climb all of the known variations in a single day.. last night I did it!

-Cave Left (v7 from proper start)
-Cave Left 2 Cave Center (v8 from proper start)
-Cave Left 2 Cave Right (v9 from proper start)
-Cave Center (v4)
-Midget (v7)
-Midget Stand (v5)
-Midget 2 Cave left (Cave Traverse short) (v6)
-Midget 2 Cave Center (v6)
-Liquid Swords (Ninja Swords) (v6/7)
-Cave Right (v7)
-Cave Right 2 Cave Left (v7)
-Cave Traverse (v8)
-Oxygen Cocktail (v8/9)
-Cave Trav 2 Cave Right (v8)
-Cave Trav 2 Cave Center (v8)
-the thing on the far right side of the boulder??? (v5)
-Liquid Swords into Cave Right (v8)

-And I did a few more variations that I cannot remember and I know I am leaving out..

On Saturday I am leaving for Colorado, am very mobed up. It will be good times, I would also like to thank Molly Hooley (my lady) for being the best thing that ever happened to me.. She puts up with a lot and I love her more than anything, she is amazing and you all should know that. VOMIT..

LATER.

3 of my Favorite Vids.

2010-08-30T07:04:00.000-07:00

You have all watched these videos but if you are at work watch them again.

Splinter from ben pritchard on Vimeo.

IT IS SO HHOTOTOTOTOTOOOT

2010-08-30T06:00:00.000-07:00

Lately I am reminded why I moved away from here in the first place. It is so hot! Last week I decided to make a midweek trip to Willow.. The conditions had been getting better but I was still low on motivation. I did not want to try Able because my hand is still not 100% and the pocket takes a big pull on it so I decided to try Hurtful Pleasure with a roof crack crux I have left this one untried because it had a ROOF CRACK CRUX! I went for my "flash" attempt and it was miserable, I had no shot. I never did the crux. During one of my attempts I used a pocket just below the pinky lock/ hand jam slot.. I reached out to the hold my foot slipped and MY FINGER GOT STUCK! not fully stuck but definitely got stuck, that was my last try. I think for this season I am done with Willow, I may go try and do a few routes to maintain fitness but I am good climbing new stuff.

Yesterday Kelly, myself, jeff, lynn, and Jacob decided to go to T-falls. It was miserable. Hot and slippy. I have never thought the Cave Traverse was harder than I did yesterday.

Jeff did the Cave Trav, Kelly Tried to repeat it and failed, and Lynn tried to refine her beta.

In other words. I cannot wait till fall. I have some video I will add to this post when I get home tonight.

BUSY BEFORE THE BOULDERING SEASON.

2010-08-27T06:52:00.001-07:00

I spoke with a guy at fixed pin about doing a guide book for MN, WI's bouldering.. ONLY BOULDERS.

It got me really psyched and I am trying to get Sawmill's guide and topo done first. Here is a sneak peak of the first are in the guide.. I am not sure yet if I will use a publisher or self publish smaller guides.. only time will tell.

It is A TON more work than you would ever dream it to be.

I have also been shaping,

NEW HOLDS IN NICROS URETHANE COMING OUT THIS WINTER! OMG!

Rip off artist..

2010-08-13T07:43:00.000-07:00

Go to Bomberholds.com Take a look at the crimps and jibs section, take a look these Nicros holds.. Look familiar?

A may be a little hard to tell however the 2 sets are identical! Even down to the logo placement.. it is total bullsh8. Basically they took our holds, drilled out the logo and molded them..

SO I ask all of my fellow reader (all 12 of you) Send Bomber holds a message telling them how they are ripping off other peoples shapes...

And the worst part is that they are not hurting Nicros.. they are hurting the shaper... the shaper is the one that looses.

And now for the next rip off...

This one is not as bad..

Again, not nearly as bad as Bomb-rip off-er holds. but still... Stripes are so over done.

NEW SHOES

2010-08-07T14:58:00.000-07:00

Five Ten put out a ton of new Rock shoes this year, I will post about each one individually later but here is a preview.....

THE BEST KICKS EVER... "DIRTBAGS"

NEW "QUANTUM"

NEW "HORNET"

NEW "WOMEN'S BLACKWING"

NEW "SUPER -MOC"

The ISLAND movie....

2010-08-07T14:51:00.000-07:00

Dave showing the teaser.. AMAZING.

Dave syked

COULD BE THE BEST CLIMBING FILM EVER....

Gear, and peeps

2010-08-07T14:45:00.001-07:00

Weird Pic

Dave Sending the boof

Nicros boof before the boof

The Comp Wall.

Jason... pre comp stress face.

ROPED PUNT

2010-07-26T06:34:00.000-07:00

I went out to Willow yesterday morning and met the legend Jeff Engel to scope out a new line and do some climbing.

I had 2 main goals,

-Climb
Midsummer Daydreams 12b/c
-Try

Able 5.13d

I was able to do Mid-summer first try after I had done Sudden Daydream 3+ years ago.... and let me say Midsummer is amazing! 3 knee bars! After Jeff ran some laps I geared up for Able. Able consist of a 3 or 4 move v10 into 5.12 climbing and for me it is really hard. The boulder problem revolves around a hard dyno into a slot off of a 2 finger pocket. 2 moths ago I had tried Able and re-injured my wrist/finger on the drilled pocket and was not psyched. Yesterday was a bit different. I had tried the boulder problem a few times and kept falling on the slot move. I came down and rested and then headed back up, I also decided to throw on some draws just in case I stuck the move... Guess what? I DID..

As I started climbing into Couch Time (512d) I got all the way to the 2nd crux and PUNT. I was way to pumped.

I will head back on Tuesday to try my lock again...

Willow

2010-07-23T19:12:00.000-07:00

YIKES!

I am syked on ROUTES! Who would have thought..

I went to Willow River last night with Lynn Johnson and had a great time climbing. I did a few new routes,

-Genesis Effect 5.12d

-Sudden Shock 5.11d

-Daily Grind 5.11a

The best part is, I had no endurance, between the 3 routes I found or used 8 knee bars...

I was able to onsight Genesis Effect, kind of. Which brings me to my next point, if I climb route "A" and route "B" shares the same first 15-20ft and then climbs 60-80 ft independent of anything you have climbed can you take the onsight?

I am heading back Sunday AM with the legend himself, Jeff Engle. I think something new is on the horizon but I will fill you in on that later...

Maybe another 14a in the MIDWEST?

SAY WHA?????

A great Vid to share.

2010-07-20T07:26:00.000-07:00

The Worst DAY @ the Lake.

2010-07-17T20:31:00.000-07:00

BOY WAS IT HOT.

Rv, Steve, Katie, and myself went to the lake. We looked at alot of stuff none of it was great but I did find one gem in the field.

Perfect.

2010-07-03T09:56:00.000-07:00

I had an amazing trip to Switzerland.

I will put together a shot video for all of you who care but I did not climb much.. looked at tons of boulders and spent some amazing time with my future wife..

Eyes Open..

2010-06-07T12:53:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I had to make a trip to the ER because I had something in my eye and could not get it out...

Turns out it was a piece of metal and it was beginning to rust. While at the ER they tried to remove it but ended up being unsuccessful and today I had to see a specialist. The eye Doc used a drill (no joke) to remove the piece of metal from my eye and then had to remove some of the tissue around the sliver because it was filled with rust.

I have broken many bones (28) but this is by far te most painfull injury I have ever had. Your eye is not meant to have things in it and when it does it lets you know it HATES it.

But in other news.

The world cup in Vail came and went and I would say it was really cool to watch. I will say that I was surprised to see such a MASSIVE route setting mistake made on the Women's 2.

Let me know if you see it,

but all and all I think it was a fantastic show. I think Men's four was almost perfect.

I also have decided to head back to the souf this winter.. I am very excited and will fill you in later. Here are some photos that my friends Keith L, and Dan L took.

I leave for Colorado for the weekend on Friday I am really syked to get back on rock.. I also leave for 15 DAYS, I CAN NOT TELL YOU HOW MOBED UP I AM.

Climbing Permit

2010-05-28T05:23:00.001-07:00

Last weekend I attend the Taylor's Falls clean up. While at the clean I filed my 1st Climbing Permit. As a "boulder'r" I never thought the permit applied to me and was unsure why people needed it. I spoke with RON (the MN side park manager) and he expressed the importance of filing.

MN keeps track of user groups in the park, we as climbers have no better way to promote and keep access then letting the park system know we are there (EVEN BOULDER'RS).

You may be asking yourself,

How do I file?

Go to the park office during business hours and ask for a climbing permit.

How much does it cost?

Free.99 (0.00$)

What do I do after I file?

Keep your half of the stylish pink slip with you at all times in the park and you are good to go!

I am still unsure if WI has a permit that you will need to fill out but I do know that as of last year 2,800 climbers are filed in MN and I would like that to break 3,800 this year (so we can have a kick ass comp). I am planning a sit down with the park staff from MN and WI to discuss the guidebook. When I know the WI side permit rules I will let you know.

On other notes.

if you are in to comp climbing you can watch the world cup in Vienna today @ 10:00am (CST) the men's comp was early this morning and the Kilian was in top form.

Alex is there and I hope she pulls out another V.

HERE IS THE LINK

http://www.247.tv/climbing/freestream

The weather in MN has hit the shitter and I have started to try and get fit again. I had 1 really good day in the gym followed by 2 of the worst days I have ever had. I am going to film a few boulder problems from our gym and work on my editing skills.

Black Ice

2010-05-23T20:52:00.000-07:00

A few weeks ago I was in Colorado for the CWA coffrence in Boulder. I got out of Boulder to boulder with my friends Kelly and Jeff. Kelly has a hard time with words. Check it.

P.S.

Black Ice is one of the best in Colorado, I would put it next to Whispers and NMGG.

The Video

2010-05-04T04:40:00.001-07:00

The Most Amazing Day In Midwest Climbing History

2010-05-02T18:58:00.000-07:00

Daniel is in town and I had some high hopes for him, he did not disappoint.

Here is a tick list of his Weekend.

Thursday,

Cain 5.14a/b/c (third try)

Natural Selection 5.12c (Onsight)

Friday,

The Nicros Screw on problem V12/13

Saturday,

Pocket Hercules V8 (FLASH)

The Raven V12

Tengo De La Muerte V10 (FLASH)

Lean Wid It, Rock Wid It V9 (FA)

Rock Wid It V4

Sunday,

Part 1 (willow)

Couch Time 5.12C/D/13.A (FLASH)

Mono Route 5.13A (FLASH)

Part 2 (Taylor's Falls)

Cave Trav V8

Oxygen Cocktail V8/9

Cave Right V6

Cave Left into Cave Right V8

Mike's Left V7

Mike's Left Sit V9

Lloyd's Sit V10

Left of Lloyds V11

Whoa..

That is a god weekend.

Video coming soon.

My Dream

2010-04-28T09:51:00.001-07:00

I really want to do this boulder someday.

Vecchio Leone from Michele Caminati on Vimeo.

Rando's

2010-04-27T06:09:00.000-07:00

My roommates refer to "Rando's" as chicks from the bar. I refer to the random boulder problems I have never been to in MN.

This is one of 3 areas in the midwest that I have not been to. I first heard of the "county road 6" from my friends Neil and Eric, they had visited the area a few year back. I decided to try and find the area and a boulder problem called Big Shots (v6).

With the help of Josh Helke I found the area and climbed the boulder. Big shots is a tiny roof with some cool slopes and sharp crimp, it is a ton of fun climbing but is a total contrivance/eliminate but if you can look past that it is amazing and in Minnesota.

Jim Mer-DOg = Malcom Smith of the Midwest!

2010-04-22T06:16:00.000-07:00

Jim is like Malcom...

Just kicking it where he likes to live and climbing on what he's got.

Firefight 8b First Ascent from Willackers on Vimeo.

Jim

2010-04-22T05:55:00.000-07:00

THIS IS NOT JIM, THIS IS ALEX.

Jim climbs hard.

Jim put up the "stand" start to the line left of Exodus (yet to be named). He did not tell me the grade but I would say that it is at least v10??? Who knows? With the stand now finished the extensions (from the start of EX and Trav'n left and the full Trav from the end of Ex to the satnd start 14b?)

Jim also repeated Tengo on Saturday. He took it down hard for the 3rd.

Alex Climbs Hard.

My friend Alex Savage is on a year long trip to Europe.. Just climbing.

I saw this picture of him climbing on Vecchio Leone. When I first started climbing I saw a picture of Bernard Zangler climbing on Vecchio when I first started getting into climbing and is one of the reasons I "will climb 8b".

Very Syked for the future,

Paul and The Raven

2010-04-11T13:45:00.001-07:00

Nicros had Paul Robinson come to Minnesota to shape his "signature series" of holds that Nicros will release this fall/winter.

Part of my new job at Nicros is to take the athletes around and show them some climbing areas in the Midwest. The first place I took Paul was The Raven in my opinion the "Best of the Midwest".

here is a video of the day,

Paul became the 3rd person to climb v12 in Minnesota. He did it in good style. RESPECT. He also did "the move" on the Nicros screw-on jib problem @ VE. He is at the gym now so I will update you if he did it, I think it is around the CATS 8B range. Today was supposed to be a Sawmill day so Paul could make a run at the B3 boulder "The Ameture" but Paul was not ready for the long drive and needed to train for the upcoming UBC comp so we bailed (sorry PI :)).

Paul Robinson

2010-04-10T16:38:00.000-07:00

Paul did the Raven, could be v16??????

I found a sick equation for bouldering grades that I will share with you later but to sum it up, it is the only way to REALLY FIND OUT HOW HARD THINGS ARE.

I will post the video tomorrow.

I may make it private so ll the haters get f'd.

Climb 8b.

2010-04-06T06:47:00.000-07:00

Climbing,

On sickgnargnar I posted this comment on GOALS,

1. The Shield (tried a little but my finger was not up for it)
2. Greatest Show (kinda)
3. 30 project
4. Ameture (Have not tried yet this season)
5. Climb an 8a boulder @ the lake (not sure if the rock will make anything that hard)
6. Lead rubber man (if I cannot die attempting) (Have not tried)
7. Flash whiskey ago go(so?) (Have not tried)
8. Go to switz (I leave June 18th)
9. Go to spain (hmmm?)
10.Heal my finger (did it then re-injured it)

I added the last 3.

11. Homestar
12. King of Town
13. The Prow

I am injured at the moment and have not climbed since I did the Prow. My left shoulder is on the fritz alone with my Right. Could be time to go under the knife...??

I think I am going to throw in the towel on this season.

I head to CO mid may I would really like to be back into climbing by then and I would love to do the classic Black Ice. We will see.

So Dak

2010-03-28T06:42:00.000-07:00

Greatest Show on Earth,

2010-03-22T21:22:00.000-07:00

This problem is really good. My video is not.

Greatest Show On Earth from Nicros Club-JA on Vimeo.

Private Video.

2010-03-17T09:12:00.000-07:00

I have made a private video, not the kind the Faye Reagan makes but the climbing vid's. Why you may ask? Well, I do not want D-woods or Paul to flash The Raven so it can get downgraded (my ego could not handle that). And I make the video's because I think that it is fun to watch the people I climb with climb problems in places that I cannot be at when they are so I figured that people would like to see my video's. For the most part they did.

I understand now why people lay under the radar.

So all my videos are private. If you want to see em' E-mail

OKLOBZIJA@HOTMAIL.COM

and I will send you a password.

Brian Camp said it best,

"CLIMBING IS GAY"... "I HATE CLIMBING"

I am starting to get it.

In other news,

My finger injury is back! Whahoo! It happened the day I did the Raven. But what ev's it is not nearly as bad as before. I am going to climb at CHOSSILLOW River and try and do this amazing chipped, glued, dramatic route Andy Raether put up a few years back (or at least kinda put up, he got pulled off by T-shake mid route, such a good story). Willow river is a total shit pile. I am not even a little bit syked. The only reason I want to go there is to get some enduro for "Whiskey a-go-go" (13a) and supposedly the best route in the Heartland.

I also want to hit up some trad at devils lake/palisade head.

Surf Report.

2010-03-15T13:56:00.000-07:00

OK party people here is how the areas look for MN-

Sawmill- F'd

Problems you can climb on,

-Onion
-Jaws
-Luke Warm
-Tombstone.

Everything else was wet as of Sunday March 14th.

Sandstone- Unsure but take it easy people.

I know this place is so hot right now but take it easy, Sandstone when wet can break. You may being saying to yourself "but Nic climbed up there weeks ago" and your right... but what you do not get is that I shoveled the boulders that I wanted to climb on off (both tengo and the raven) so they would dry off. The rive boulder is totally F'd.

problems you can climb on,

-Pocket Hercules
-The Rave (maybe... could be dank)
-Tengo (maybe)

Swede's,

No idea? Who is going there?

Taylor's,

Again, No idea..

Taylor's "water area",

OUT OF COMMISSION FOR SEASON

I have a idea where I might go... But I am not telling. Maybe Devil's Lake... or Maybe something big and swirly....

Now that the surf report is over..

Here is how my Saturday/Sunday went... Not as good as Steve's but close.

Saturday.

Wake up, Drink Coffee, stain Mantle (more to come on this one), go to Molly's, go out with friends, drink beer, drink shot, WASTED! why? Where in that sentence does it say eat food.

Go home, Eat food.

Get sober, time check... 11:00pm.. sleep.

Sunday.

get up, drink coffee, eat, pick up Jim, drive for 3.5 Hours, hike/post hole for 45min, get to boulders with soaking wet shoes (I am a idiot) sit on mat, cook socks till warm, hike back for 30min, get in car drive back for 3.5h.

Bullshit.

I need DRY ROCK...

Where will it be?

Big 5.. oh wait... 6

2010-03-07T16:46:00.000-08:00

A while back I put up a post about "The Big 5" as of yesterday the 5 is now 6. Here is the list. Finish the list and you will be the Second on the "Best of the Midwest" List, Jim Merli being the first. He has not done all the problems on this list but has done 4 of the Big 6 (Ameture FA, Left of Lloyds, This Sporting Life FA, Exodus)

The Big 6 (in order of stars and my opinion)

(V12/B3) The Raven

(V12+/B3) Amateur

(V10) Keymaker

(V10/11) Exodus

(V11) Left of Lloyds

(V12)This Sporting Life

1 left and it is the hardest, Jim Merli's "Amateur" (v12/13 in my opinion). Jim and I are headed up to Sawmill next week, should be interesting. Amateur is a horrendously sharp boulder problem revolving around a one armer off a small seem crimp to another small seem crimp that is followed by a long lock off. Jim Merli makes it look v2, I have spent 5 or 6 days trying it already but could not complete the second or third (or dead hang the position after being power spotted). It is incredibly hard, not my style, and a fantastic test for me as a climber.

Ready..set..split tips AND BITCHING!

I plan on shooting some video of the area. I believe it is the best bouldering are in the Midwest (even if it is a bit sharp). Jim and I will be snow shoeing in and shoveling on Saturday.

More info later. I am still beaming after yesterday. WOW.

The Raven.

2010-03-07T07:08:00.000-08:00

Untitled from Nicros Club-JA on Vimeo.

Yesterday Jim Merli and I headed back up to Sandstone to finish off the 30 degree wall. It was F'ing epic.

ice climbing.

2010-02-27T21:01:00.000-08:00

I hate being cold. I hate being wet.

I hate ice climbing.

Jim Merlie and I hit up SS today and it was top notch. Exempt that I fell thru the ice, Jim almost broke his leg, everything was covered in snow, and we couldn't warm up. No one got hurt and we each got to spend another day at the 30.

Most of that is a long story and I do not want to get into it. It was epic but amazing at the same time. Jim said it best as we trudged thru the snow "this is the closest I want to get to mountain climbing".

Here is a video of today. It sums up my feelings.

Ice Climbing. from Nicros Club-JA on Vimeo.

Pashion 4 Flash'n

2010-02-25T10:02:00.000-08:00

I am home sick...

So I made a movie of the passion for flash'n. Yes, I know the spelling is incorrect. I am avoiding the GOOGLERS.

so check it out.

Untitled from Nicros Club-JA on Vimeo.

Pashion For Flash'n

2010-02-16T12:12:00.000-08:00

I have been up to nothing as of late. I have been pulling on lots of plastic and I think I am about to get stronger. I am still battling injury on my finger, not a pulley, tendon, or something normal... a ligament. Basically I sprained my finger crimping. This week I am setting for the "Passion For Flash'n" should be a good show. I got tons of crazy ideas. If anyone wants to come into town for the weekend (and climb at a secret spot) let me know, it is going to be off the hook.

here are some photos from when I competed a few years ago. Unlike

Switzerland and Australia

2010-01-28T10:40:00.000-08:00

It is official.

I booked a flight to Switzerland (Part 1).

On Tuesday June 22nd I will be leaving MSP and flying to Zurich. I will spend 13 days touring around and experiencing something new. I will climb for a few days, but the majority of the trip is re-con and relaxation (R.R.). My girlfriend Molly will be joining me and I am very excited to spend my first time overseas with her.

I hope to return later on in 2010 with a crew of climbers and really focus on climbing.

In 2011 I plan to head to Australia, talking with Chris Webb-parsons about the style of climbing and value of U.S. dollars got me really syked.

Who's in? Jamie? Camp?(THAT IS A JOKE).

Moe's Valley and Coming HOME!

2010-01-27T17:07:00.001-08:00

well, a ton has happened in the last week.

Another trade show and a lot of shit talk, interviewing and free beer drinking took place last week in SLC as I am sure most you are aware of. It was my last show working (in the context I do now) for Five Ten. I am very happy to be coming back to Minnesota but will miss the open road full of new people, areas, and shitty food (more goodbyes to come).

Yesterday my hommie Joel and I hit up Moe's Valley on the way back from SLC. Moe's looks what I think Joe's would look like and I must say is really cool. I was impressed. I put together a little video of the day (or at least part of the day). I was really happy with how I climbed for not climbing for 5+days and driving all day. I was also happy to see my finger(s) is(are) on the UP and UP, if I had to put a percentage on it I would say 80% POWER?

Moe's Valley Pit Stop from Nicros Club-JA on Vimeo.

A.D.D. MOMENT

I also learned that I have really weak fingers. Like, Really WEAK. When my finger is back to 100% my main focus will be gaining finger strength.

So,

take a look, I will do another post when I am back in the Midwest this weekend. WOW.. I am really doing it. WHOA. It is funny to think about how bad I wanted to get the F' out and for the last 6 months I have been trying to get back in.

p.s.

For all of you thinking of going to Hueco and looking to climb a V8 go check out Chis' Arete. It is a Bullshit V8 but for some reason people are still taking it. I know, I am "that guy" who gives a F' about 8a.nu, and I am so uncool for it...But if you do not like it...

"YOUR NOT INVITED"

-http://dungeontraining.blogspot.com/

inTERVIEW.

2010-01-24T07:41:00.000-08:00

Feel free to share this on your blogs. I find it interesting.

Sandstone Violence

2010-01-14T10:25:00.000-08:00

With all of the development in "Fad" areas for the last 2 years in Wisco I started thinking...

Sandstone Violence (V8) is THE BEST of the G'Dodge development. What was the best thing done this year at D'Lake?

Mojo?
Sweaty's thing?
Black Sheep?

Start the comment war now, ready go.

p.s.

On Tuesday I received demo unit from the boys at Compex. I was experiencing sever shoulder pain and could barley lift my arm and my FINGERS had not been recouping as fast as I had hoped.

Last night I climbed, with no shoulder pain and my finger was not feeling sore at all.

Today, my shoulder has no pain. My finger, still not perfect but on the "up and up".

Thank you COMPEX.

if you would like to buy a compex e-stim I will be starting a websale climbing spesific e-stim site. e-mail me and I will set you up.

I quit my job, I like holds.

2010-01-12T11:20:00.000-08:00

As you know I quit my job. I am moving back to MN and getting off the road. You may be asking yourself why? why would he leave his job of awesomeness?

The easiest way to say it is, I want a life. I have taken 20? days off (give or take) and my tendon in my ring finger is feeling much better but my ligament in my middle finger is still tweaked and somehow along the way I injured my shoulder? WTF? I think I injured it playing Wii bowling. Yep, bowling.

As you can see I am getting more and more injured and having to take time "off" of climbing. The problem is I have nothing to do without climbing. No, really, nothing. In MN I can have a life filled with things that have absolutely nothing to do with scaling rocks.

In Cali, I have nothing. Nothing but climbing. Sure, I could make something but I am more mobed up on the Life I could create in MN.

NOW.. WITH THAT SAID..

I have never been more motivated to climb something hard. Jamie Emerson did a post on projects and let the cat out of the bag. Now I feel really motivated to get the 30 done.

RANDOM ADD INTERRUPTION!

I will have a list of the "BEST IN THE MIDWEST" done for next weeks post. Please e-mail me all of your projects/ established amazing problems of any grade.

oklobzija@hotmail.com

in closing,

I am ready to Move back and try to expand my horizons in climbing and finish all of my Midwest projects and maybe join a fad that I heard about. Steve is part of it, so is Narc.

until later..

What is the Hardest move you have ever done?

2010-01-07T10:56:00.000-08:00

I know people can climb hard problems but what about MOVES? I can think of 2 really, really, ridiculously hard moves I have done. What if P-rob/D-woods spent 110 days on a move?

Left Of Lloyds This one move basically took me 110 day s to do. I have done it twice (once on the stand, once on the sit) . I have watched others do the move with no trouble but for me it is very hard.
(EDIT)
L of L has broken, if your my height you would use a key left foot that is no longer there. Chris H did the line using a lower foot so if you are his height it will not be a problem (good luck being that tall).

The 30 Project sit. The single weirdest move I have ever done, it revolves around a extreme smear/flag maneuver and the holds are facing the wrong way (15 says to do the 1 move).

River Roof. Go Find it.

2010-01-06T14:02:00.000-08:00

Winter is upon us. I know of a good area, with lots of hard stuff and good rock. Good luck, go find it. This area holds some of Minnesota's best stone and coolest Movement. Here is a topo of the area.

Blue= Super Proj.
Yellow=Another Super Proj
Red= (v9) Icy Hot
Put this one up last year with "tall" Chris.
Green=(v10?) Mike Helke's Problem.
I tried this boulder problem for over an hour. I could not do a single move.
Pink= Another super Proj
This one could be 8B?

So in Closing, Have fun and walk far.

Day 4 of 30

2010-01-06T13:35:00.001-08:00

If you wanted to know how I got injured, here it is.

What the hell do people do if they are unable to climb? I am becoming really fat and unhealthy. My weight before I was injured 146, My weight now = 160 and it ain't muscle. My shoulder has also been bothering me to the point that I cannot do pull ups. I am currently living in a Van (Five Ten's) in Redlands Ca. I have a flight booked back to MN on the 29th which will be my last day at Five Ten.

I have to work (for Five Ten) the O.R. trade show in SLC in mid Jan. I will some of you in on what I will be doing for my new employer, but not yet.

I am a little ADD right now so back to the injury/ recovery.

Here is the plan,

Feb= Run/Bike/push ups/Core
March= Sport Climb/ Go to the Red/ SO Dak
April= 30 project.

May= Quit Climbing

June= go to Switz with my lady!

I HATE Bishop.

2009-12-30T15:36:00.000-08:00

As some of you know, I hate Bishop.

Why? you ask.

1) Sharp as Fuck.
2)Hippies everywhere.
3) After you climb
-Haroun and the Sea of Stories
- Xavier's Roof
- Spectre
you have nothing to look forward to but split tips and pain..

I have decided to head to Bishop this weekend for New Years. I am sure it will be a hippie filled, bloody mess. I am going to try and stay off my finger. My friend Alex Savage (http://www.savageclimbing.com) is also injured and I heard he may just shoot video, I know I will. I really want to try this boulder problem (I have been flailing on it for awhile).

But we will see.

If you don't know, now you know.

2009-12-30T15:31:00.000-08:00

COMPEX PERFORMANCE TECHNOLOGY

2010 Compex Fitness Trainer Muscle Stimulator

Item: COM101
$498.99

Our NQA returns policy

Email to a friend

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The Compex Fitness Trainer is absolutely, positively the same E-Stim device as the Compex Sport with only one distinction: Instead of coming with 6 programming modes, it comes with 3. You get Recovery, Resistance, and Endurance. Otherwise the technology and supporting components and documentation are identical.

This is a sports fad that is becoming more popular, go get one. You will not regret it.

Homeless, Injured, and pissed!

2009-12-13T09:54:00.000-08:00

My finger (s) hurt. I am currently sitting in Stell coffee shop in Redlands California. I slept in the parking lot last night in the Five Ten van. I am moving back to Minnesota in February and need to not pay rent in California until then. Typically, this situation would not be that bad. I would head to the climbing gym and forget about my whoas. It is because of this situation that I realize that climbing has become one of my coping mechanisms. If anything in life hits me and I need to regroup the gym, boulders, and my lady are my go too.

Take one of these out of the equation and I "come off" (as in whipper). Trapped in Redlands for another week Molly-less, Climbing-less, and Basically Dollar-less (Damn Christmas) I am becoming extremely stressed and do not know what the fuck to do about it. Powerless.

I am thinking that the reason for writing this is no longer for you to read and be entertained but for me to vent. So add this to the list of things I use to cope.

P.s.

I know I am dramatic. I know you may not understand why. I know it will all be over soon!

Driving Sucks.

2009-12-10T07:49:00.000-08:00

I am Driving from Chattanooga Tn to Redlands Ca and it sucks. The worst part about this situation is when I get back work is going to be hell followed by Driving back across the country to Mn for the holidays. FML.

It will all be over soon.

-nic

p.s.

My finger is not happy and because of my ring finger injury now my middle finger hurts. Both fingers are swollen and are "out the game".

Because of my full time road tour I have been unable to maintain ant fitness. I am physically the weakest I have ever been and I hate it. Last week I tried to do a few single arm lock offs and was disgusted by my lack of power.

I have decided to take 30 days off of climbing.

Pull ups, Push ups, Sit ups, and leg lifts are on the way.

Cumberland

2009-12-05T12:48:00.000-08:00

WOW.

This place is good. Brion showed me around (because the 3crown was postponed till tomorrow).

People make fun of me for climbing with my feet. Well, today it all payed off. Here is a video of the old beta..

I can't even come close to this beta.

Gross's Roof 8a from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

So I got silly, here is a video of the day.

Best Boulders Under V5?

2009-12-05T07:12:00.000-08:00

What is the best boulder under v5 in the Midwest?

Big Boy?

The Sycamore?

10th plague?

LRC, Veasy.

2009-12-04T20:32:00.000-08:00

My flight from MSP to CHA (Chattanooga, TN) left at 5:20am on Thursday morning. I arrived at the airport at 4:50am and was not allowed to make my flight (the Delta lady was a bitch). I woke up at 4:00am for nothing, I was pissed. The good news was that I was able to catch a flight only an hour later (Delta lady was no help and still a bitch).

I arrived in Chatty at 12:00pm after a brief layover in Hotlanta and hating the Delta lady. Jon Doruough (SE Five Ten rep) picked me up and we headed straight up to LRC. I felt like crap but was marginally motivated to try The Shield. We arrived at LRC and quickly realized it was not going to be a hard climbing day, half of the boulders were wet and the air was dank. My attention quickly moved to a bunch of easier problems I had looked at but never tried.

VEASY from Nicros Club-JA on Vimeo.

The last stop of the Triple Crown is tomorrow and the weather looks terrible. But I am praying that it clears up because I would like to try "Salo's Roof" on Sunday. I love climbing in the south and I think it is one of the nations best areas but I find myself thinking of nothing but the 30 in Minnesota.

I have made a few changes in life and will be moving back to MN in a month. I have never been happier.

The Medium 12

2009-12-02T13:24:00.000-08:00

The "medium 12" is a idea similar to the "Big 5" but medium. So here is the "Medium 12", it consist of boulders in Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Iowa (if they had rock).

The "Medium 12"

1.(V8) Sandstone Violence

2. (V6/7) Jenga

3. (V9) Alpine Club

4. (V8) Beautiful Soup

5. (V8) Cave Traverse

6. (V7) Mikes Left

7. (V7) Genetic Control (Full points for non-roped ascent)

8. (V7) Payback

9. (V7) Counselor Moon

10. (V7) Dead Leaves and the Dirty Ground

11. (V8) Pocket Hercules

12. ????

I am unsure of the 12th should be but the list needs to be 12 not 11. So add your comments, I will update the list next week. My "BEST OF" list of this "best of" list are Sandstone Violence, Jenga, Alpine Club, Cave Traverse, Dead Leaves and the Dirty Ground (my #1) and Counselor Moon.

So far I have finished all the problems on the list, Here are a few videos that contain some of these problems.

Mike's Left - Taylors Falls from Neil Berget on Vimeo.

Governor Dodge State Park from Neil Berget on Vimeo.

Human Jenga from ClimbingNarc.com on Vimeo.

The Raven, My Raven

2009-12-01T08:10:00.000-08:00

Simple, I like blogs that are simple, short, and to the point. I find myself fascinated with the Bleausard idea, if you are unsure of what a Bleausard is, this guy is a Bleausard.

The Midwest has a few Legends, some put up the problems, some just repeat, and others do both. In 2004 I began my pursuit of the hardest, best, and coolest problems I could find. At that time the gym (Vertical Endeavors) was the center and the community was built around it. Brian Camp and Jim Merli ran the show. For some unknown reason Brian and Jim let me climb with them, they showed me the path to the hardest in the Midwest and for that I am thankful.

Simple, to keep it Simple, thank you.

I am also composing a list of the hardest so that the younger generation has an end goal. I see so many young climbers training for the next ABS/ SCS comp. What if they wanted to train for Keymaker? Or Amateur?

Here is the list. Finish the list and you will be the Second on the "Best of the Midwest" List, Jim Merli being the first. He has not done all the problems on this list but has done 4 of the Big 5 (Ameture FA, Left of Lloyds, This Sporting Life FA, Exodus)

The Big 5

(V10) Keymaker

(V11) Left of Lloyds

(V12)This Sporting Life

(V12) Amateur

(V10/11) Exodus

I wanted to leave you with this, it reminded me of my project. If this isn't dramatic I am not sure what is.

http://www.heise.de/ix/raven/Literature/Lore/TheRaven.html